Managing Dog Aggression

Any consultant that claims or even subtly implies that he/she can get your dog “fixed” or “cured” of its aggression is trying to sell you on his services.

It is much more realistic to start with the idea that you may not be able to cure his aggression, but with proper treatment and training you may be able to control your dog’s aggressive tendencies, and reduce the behavior.

Three things you can do right now

1. Avoid triggers

Triggers or “stimuli” are the circumstances that cause your dog to behave aggressively.  Inappropriate behavior is often learned, and the longer it goes on, the more difficult it is to change:

“The ability of the owner to recognize the potential for the aggressive event and to abort it before it happens cannot be overemphasized. Clients sincerely committed to treatment can learn this, as demonstrated by the high proportion of improved dogs (90% considerable, 75% substantially) seen at the behavior Clinic at VHUP.” [1]

Fear aggression is probably the most successfully treated with a desensitization program according to Dr. Nicolas Dodman, because it is primarily a learned behavior. But even with aggression that has a genetic base, much of the aggression is augmented through learning. This is what behavior modification looks at. However,any dog that is aggressive for any reason can be potential dangerous, even if you think that the aggression is appropriate, in-context behavior. Any opportunity to act on its aggression, will allow your dog to learn fro that experience.

2. Invest in a head halter and learn to use it properly

A head halter can provide you with a lot more control than a regular collar and leash system, and is far less dangerous than any kind of prong, choke or electronic collar as well as offering more control.

A head halter is not a muzzle.  A muzzle can prevent your dog from biting, but will not give you the handling control to deal with lunging.  If your dog is dangerous a muzzle is always a good idea to keep people or other animals from getting bitten, however your dog can still cause damage and injury even if he or she is not biting.

Have you vet help you with fitting your dog for Promise System/Gentle Leader Head Collar ® [2], for walking dogs is highly recommended. In some cases these can be used inside the home for dogs who may threaten the people who are working with it.

Some people avoid using head halters because their dogs paw at the head halter and try to get it off.  However studies have indicated that even though dogs do this their cortisol levels (which is released during the stress response) do not actually rise.  This tool is so valuable, it is worth taking the time to get the proper fit and desensitize your dog to wearing one.  Here is a link to desensitizing your dog to wearing a muzzle, you can use the same techniques to desensitize your dog to wearing a head halter.

3. Teach your dog to defer to you

Dodman also writes that the simple NILIF (Nothing in Life is Free, also known as “Working for a living”, or “No free lunch”) can reduce dominance aggression within a two month period in about ninety percent of cases. The benefit of this program is that it is great for any dog regardless of aggression. See teaching your dog deferential behavior. Dr. Karen Overall’s program uses a deference program as only one area in treating dominant aggressive dogs. But a deference program and a relaxation protocol is often the foundation work that she recommends for further behavior modification.[1]

However, you can not hope to eliminate dominance aggression. You may have to rely on a management strategy such as the NILIF program, or a drug therapy for the life of the dog, after treatment, but if 90% of the dogs seen at VHUP show considerable improvement to the extent the owners are happy to keep them, then this should be encouraging!

If your dog attacks other dogs, Dodman writes, “You will never be able to persuade an adult would-be dominant dog that he is anything other than what he is with respect to his peers”. (2) Does this mean you should put your dog to sleep because he will never be able to play off leash in the park? Certainly not. Besides which, not all dogs fight other dogs because of dominant reasons. We personally know of people who have been able to improve the lives of dog aggressive dogs considerably.

Management in this case might mean teaching your dog how to pay attention to you regardless of the distractions, as well as keeping your dog on a leash and head halter, instead of letting them free at the offleash park. If you can learn to get in and out the vet’s without a conflict, if you can learn to walk your dog on a leash down the street with out it lunging at every dog it sees, you have come a long way towards solving your problem (and this IS realistic goal for a dog-aggressive dog).

In every case, control is the responsibility of all dog owners and management is always far better than, injuring some one or some thing, taking a life or giving up your dog. But you must be realistic. Any aggressive dog is potentially a dangerous dog. Some dogs may be pathologically aggressive and resistent to medications. An veterinary behaviorist may help you determine this. But, If you are not willing to do the work to keep your dog safe and others around it safe, seriously consider placing your dog in a home that is able to cope with the challenge of owning your dog and willing to do the work to improve the aggression.

If you can stick with it, and get through the hard parts, you will find that not only is change possible, but it is incredibly rewarding too. When the change becomes second nature you will be glad you stuck it through.

Successfully managing your dogs aggression does depend on what your dog’s problem may be and a good expert can help you with this. Most likely is will include a training program which could include obedience, or desensitization, a change in owner attitudes, and changes in owner expectations. The number one critical factor is owner compliance to the treatment program.

 


[1]Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Small Animals, Karen L. Overall, M.A., V.M.D., Ph.D. Diplomate, American College of Veterinary Behavior, Department of Clinical Studies, School of Veterinary Medicine, University of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia. Pennsylvania, Mosby, Inc. 1997